The Big Sailboat Adventure, Abbreviated

I just unexpectedly returned from the wild. But while I was out there, it was wonderful. We arrived in Seward on June 12th, and prepared the boat for our departure the following morning. Massive quantities of food and gear were squirreled away aboard Raven, along with Barry and Joyce Johnson, and we were ready to head out. The first day we made it all the way around to Fox Farm Anchorage at the western edge of Prince William Sound. The weather was beautiful and I even made a little fire on the outer beach facing towards the Gulf.


My fire on Elrington Island


Tlingit, humpback watching


Annie, wonder-dog


The abandoned city of Latouche, in need of some clean-up

The next several days found us traveling in tandem with the Bakers aboard Tlingit and enjoying glorious weather. There was even a bikini spotted! We stayed at Knight Island, Montague Island and crossed Hinchinbrook Entrance under sail to reach the eastern sound. Across the entrance we encountered a fair amount of excitement, as two cruise ships and a tanker were transiting the shipping lane as we ventured across.


Tlingit, in front of Knight Island


Big Pink


Sunset over Port Chalmers

We explored the inner lagoon at Constantine Harbor, keeping an alert eye for bears, as the woods were full of them (or so we had heard). The harbor is an interesting area; it is a huge lagoon that was used by the Russian fur traders as the first protected anchorage upon reaching the Sound. The village of Nuchek lies at the seaward edge of the harbor, along a spit that connects the isthmus to the main bulk of the island. After the 1964 earthquake, the uplift in this area was so severe that the harbor has been rendered inaccessible to larger vessels, as the draft in the entry channel was reduced to only a few feet.


Joyce paddles with a gaggle of sea lions

After our beach walk we made for Garden Cove, named for a garden supposedly started on the small island there by one of Captain Cook’s crewmen. We were at a loss to see where on the island a garden could have been planted.

The Lethcoe guide warned of massive brown bear activity on the beach, as had Nuchek Nick-- the one remaining resident of Nuchek, whom we had previously met. We were not disappointed, as quick binocular scans at various times revealed six different bears grazing on the beach.


Paddling at Double Bay


Barry has his halibut, at long last

The weather began to turn to slightly less glorious, with some rain, but still holding calm. We arrived in Cordova on Friday morning, and tied up among the fishing boats. After taking care of a few items of boat business, we set off to hike the ski hill, with our unexpected guide, Jill Fredston.

As it turned out, Jill, and her boat Compañera were our neighbors at the dock. She was a swift hiking companion, and this assured that I would quickly knock the rust off, as we gained altitude up to the top of the ski lift overlooking Cordova. I did this climb two more times; including an early morning jaunt to the top of the 2,356 foot Mt. Eyak with Megan, Erin, and Annie the dog.

Cordova proved to be a cute lively little town. We did a little shopping, and took much-needed showers. The Johnsons departed on the fast ferry Chenega and Jerry arrived along with Dana and friend Diane. The six of us took a car tour across the immense Copper River delta to watch the Child’s Glacier calve into the river. The drive was a bit long, but in the end well worth every minute, as the glacier is a spectacular site.


The view across the Copper River Delta


Enjoying hot dogs in front of the Child's Glacier




Calving action

Dana and Diane returned by ferry to Anchorage via Whittier, and the weather turned nasty, as predicted. We hunkered in for the day, listening to the wind howl and the rain crash down on the roof of the boat. We enjoyed a fresh Copper River red fillet and killed time playing dominoes into the wee hours of the night.


Delicious Copper River Red and Father's Day cake

On Monday, after a restless day stuck on the boat in the Cordova Harbor, we headed out towards Port Gravina and Beartrap Bay. The rain was still constant, but the winds were beginning to settle down. As we approached the entrance to the Port Gravina the fetch began to build, until we were surfing a six foot following sea.

We spent the night in scenic Beartrap Bay. The rain continued through the night and finally let up—as we took a morning kayak into the inner lagoon. Here, while I floated listening to the eagles squawk, I saw a brown bear sow and her two cubs emerge from the woods. What a peaceful and secluded place to witness the beauty of the natural world.


The three bears at Beartrap Bay


Mom paddling in the lagoon at Beartrap Bay


Whale's tale

That afternoon we received a call from the coast guard informing us of a family emergency. We soon discovered that my grandfather was terribly ill, having a bleeding ulcer and then suffering what the doctor’s suspected was a massive heart attack. We changed course, heading straight to Naked Island, and quiet Cabin Bay for the night. The following day was absolutely gorgeous, and we motored directly in to Whittier, then on to Anchorage, where Mom and I caught the red eye south.


Approaching Naked Island and Liljegren Passage


Porpoise party


Cockpit farkel


The fast ferry racing away from Whittier

I suffered a fairly blunt reintroduction to the hustle and bustle of urban life on my redeye plane flight to Portland Wednesday night-- it was packed and noisy. We arrived to see Grandpa and help to nurse him through his “miraculous recovery” (words of his doctor). Grandpa will likely be released from the hospital in the next couple of days. I am heading north again in the next couple of days for the Fourth of July.